Steam Deck Front Shell Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

102

Time Required

                          3 - 5 hours

Sections

Back Cover
3 steps
Steam Deck Battery Disconnection
4 steps
Left Trigger
4 steps
Left Button Board
8 steps
Left Touchpad
4 steps
Right Trigger
4 steps
Right Button Board
9 steps
Right Touchpad
4 steps
Front Shell
62 steps

Flags

Provided Hardware

A manufacturer provided iFixit with this device or component.

BackSteam Deck
Full Screen
Options
History
Save to Favorites
Download PDF
Edit
Translate
Get Shareable Link
Embed This Guide
Notify Me of Changes
Stop Notifications

Introduction

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your Steam Deck. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the device.

This procedure involves almost a complete disassembly, including removing the display. You’ll need replacement adhesives for the display and speakers.

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the back cover screws

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured.
Before starting this guide, power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
Four 9.5 mm screws
Four 5.8 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured.

Before starting this guide, power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.

As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.

If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

1024

Step 2

              Unclip the back cover

Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.

Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

Step 3

              Remove the back cover

Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.
Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
Remove the back cover.

Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.

Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.

Remove the back cover.

Step 4

              Uncover the hidden shield screw

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.

If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

Step 5

              Remove the shield screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
One 3.4 mm screw
Two 3.7 mm screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:

One 3.4 mm screw

Two 3.7 mm screws

Step 6

              Remove the shield

Remove the board shield.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn’t pinched underneath.

Remove the board shield.

During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn’t pinched underneath.

Step 7

              Disconnect the battery

Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.

Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

Step 8

              Unclip the left trigger

The left trigger will be on your righthand side when working on the Steam Deck, as it’s laying upside down.
The Steam Deck’s triggers clip into place on two pegs on the trigger bracket, which doubles as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger’s left clip.
Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the outermost peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the innermost peg, producing an audible “click” sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

The left trigger will be on your righthand side when working on the Steam Deck, as it’s laying upside down.

The Steam Deck’s triggers clip into place on two pegs on the trigger bracket, which doubles as the hinge.

Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger’s left clip.

Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.

During reassembly, latch the outermost peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the innermost peg, producing an audible “click” sound.

Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

Step 9

              Remove the left trigger

Remove the left trigger.
Take care to not lose the trigger spring. It press-fits onto a peg on the trigger’s underside.

Remove the left trigger.

Take care to not lose the trigger spring. It press-fits onto a peg on the trigger’s underside.

Step 10

              Remove the trigger bracket screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the left trigger bracket.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the left trigger bracket.

Step 11

              Remove the trigger bracket

Remove the left trigger bracket.
Replacement triggers require calibration to work as expected. To calibrate new triggers, follow this calibration guide.

Remove the left trigger bracket.

Replacement triggers require calibration to work as expected. To calibrate new triggers, follow this calibration guide.

Step 12

              Disconnect the left thumbstick

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the thumbstick cable’s ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the thumbstick cable’s ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 13

              Remove the thumbstick screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the thumbstick.
During reassembly, you may need to hold the Steam Deck off of the work surface so it isn’t resting on the new thumbstick while you tighten down the screws.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the thumbstick.

During reassembly, you may need to hold the Steam Deck off of the work surface so it isn’t resting on the new thumbstick while you tighten down the screws.

Step 14

              Remove the left thumbstick

Remove the left thumbstick.

Remove the left thumbstick.

Step 15

              Disconnect the interconnect cable

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable’s ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 16

              Disconnect the remaining button board cables

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:
Disconnect the D-pad cable.
Disconnect the touchpad board cable.
Disconnect the touchpad cable.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:

Disconnect the D-pad cable.

Disconnect the touchpad board cable.

Disconnect the touchpad cable.

Step 17

              Disconnect the left haptics

Exercise caution when lifting this connector—pry up on the connector itself, not its housing.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.

Exercise caution when lifting this connector—pry up on the connector itself, not its housing.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.

Step 18

              Remove the button board screws

Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the left button board:
Three 5.2 mm screws
One 3.9 mm screw

Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the left button board:

Three 5.2 mm screws

One 3.9 mm screw

Step 19

              Remove the button board

Remove the left button board.
Keep track of the Steam button and its membrane, as once the left button board is removed, they’re no longer secured in place.

Remove the left button board.

Keep track of the Steam button and its membrane, as once the left button board is removed, they’re no longer secured in place.

Step 20

              Remove the touchpad board screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad board.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad board.

Step 21

              Remove the touchpad board

Remove the touchpad board.

Remove the touchpad board.

Step 22

              Remove the touchpad screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad.
You may need to temporarily remove the Steam button membrane for easier access to the bottom left screw.
Each of the touchpad’s four mounting corners have a locating peg. During reassembly, ensure each is properly seated.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad.

You may need to temporarily remove the Steam button membrane for easier access to the bottom left screw.

Each of the touchpad’s four mounting corners have a locating peg. During reassembly, ensure each is properly seated.

Step 23

              Remove the left touchpad

The touchpad’s springs are very delicate and are precisely positioned. If bent, the touchpad may rattle or not work as intended.
From the front of the Steam Deck, use your finger to push the left touchpad partway through the front shell to unseat it.
Lift the touchpad out from underneath the overhanging section of the midframe.
Remove the touchpad.

The touchpad’s springs are very delicate and are precisely positioned. If bent, the touchpad may rattle or not work as intended.

From the front of the Steam Deck, use your finger to push the left touchpad partway through the front shell to unseat it.

Lift the touchpad out from underneath the overhanging section of the midframe.

Remove the touchpad.

Step 24

              Unclip the right trigger

The right trigger will be on your lefthand side when working on the Steam Deck, as it’s laying upside down.
The Steam Deck’s triggers clip into place on two pegs on the trigger bracket, which doubles as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger’s right clip.
Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the outermost peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the innermost peg, producing an audible “click” sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

The right trigger will be on your lefthand side when working on the Steam Deck, as it’s laying upside down.

Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger’s right clip.

Step 25

              Remove the right trigger

Remove the right trigger.
Take care to not lose the trigger spring. It press-fits onto a peg on the trigger’s underside.

Remove the right trigger.

Step 26

              Remove the trigger bracket screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the right trigger bracket.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the right trigger bracket.

Step 27

              Remove the trigger bracket

Remove the right trigger bracket.
Replacement triggers require calibration to work as expected. To calibrate new triggers, follow this calibration guide.

Remove the right trigger bracket.

Step 28

              Disconnect the right thumbstick

Step 29

              Remove the thumbstick screws

Step 30

              Remove the right thumbstick

Remove the right thumbstick.

Remove the right thumbstick.

Step 31

              Disconnect the button board cable

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable’s ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 32

              Disconnect the interconnect cable

Step 33

              Disconnect the remaining button board cables

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:
Disconnect the action buttons cable.
Disconnect the touchpad board cable.
Disconnect the touchpad cable.

Disconnect the action buttons cable.

Step 34

              Disconnect the right haptics

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.

Step 35

              Remove the button board screws

Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the right button board:
Three 5.2 mm screws
One 3.9 mm screw

Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the right button board:

Step 36

              Remove the button board

Remove the right button board.
Keep track of the quick access button and its membrane, as once the right button board is removed, they’re no longer secured in place.

Remove the right button board.

Keep track of the quick access button and its membrane, as once the right button board is removed, they’re no longer secured in place.

Step 37

              Remove the touchpad board screws

Step 38

              Remove the touchpad board

Step 39

              Remove the touchpad screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad.
You may need to temporarily remove the quick access button membrane for easier access to the bottom right screw.
Each of the touchpad’s four mounting corners have a locating peg. During reassembly, ensure each is properly seated.

You may need to temporarily remove the quick access button membrane for easier access to the bottom right screw.

Step 40

              Remove the right touchpad

The touchpad’s springs are very delicate and are precisely positioned. If bent, the touchpad may rattle or not work as intended.
From the front of the Steam Deck, use your finger to push the right touchpad partway through the front shell to unseat it.
Lift the touchpad out from underneath the overhanging section of the midframe.
Remove the touchpad.

From the front of the Steam Deck, use your finger to push the right touchpad partway through the front shell to unseat it.

Step 41

              Remove the quick access button membrane

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the quick access button membrane.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the quick access button membrane.

Step 42

              Remove the quick access button

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the quick access button.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the quick access button.

Step 43

              Remove the Steam button membrane

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Steam button membrane.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Steam button membrane.

Step 44

              Remove the Steam button

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Steam button.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Steam button.

Step 45

              Remove the SSD screw

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

Step 46

              Remove the SSD

With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.
Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.

Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.

During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

Step 47

              Remove the heatsink sticker

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.

If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

Step 48

              Remove the heatsink screws

Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:
One captive 3.5 mm screw
One 3.4 mm screw
No, your eyes don’t deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.

Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:

One captive 3.5 mm screw

No, your eyes don’t deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.

Step 49

              Remove the heatsink

Lift and remove the heatsink.
Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.

Lift and remove the heatsink.

Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.

Step 50

              Disconnect the fan

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Step 51

              Remove the fan screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the fan.
The other two fan screws were removed earlier in the disassembly: they double as two back cover screws.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the fan.

The other two fan screws were removed earlier in the disassembly: they double as two back cover screws.

Step 52

              Remove the fan

Remove the fan.

Remove the fan.

Step 53

              Disconnect the speakers

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Step 54

              Remove the Wi-Fi shield tape

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.

Step 55

              Disconnect the Wi-Fi

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.
Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.
Repeat for the second antenna cable.
During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.
To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.

Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.

Repeat for the second antenna cable.

During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.

To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

Step 56

              Disconnect the display

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable’s ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable’s ZIF connector.

Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 57

              Disconnect the audio cable

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable’s ZIF connector.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 58

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 59

Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.
The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.

The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.

If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Step 60

              Remove the motherboard screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.

Step 61

              Remove the motherboard

Remove the motherboard.
The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.

Remove the motherboard.

The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.

Step 62

              Disconnect the mic cable

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the mic cable’s white locking tab.
You should feel a small tactile bump once the connector unlocks.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the mic cable up and out of its connector.
With the connector properly unlocked, the mic cable should slide out with little to no resistance.
During reassembly, ensure that the locking tab is in its unlocked, lifted position before reinserting the mic cable. Press down on the tab to lock the cable in place.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the mic cable’s white locking tab.

You should feel a small tactile bump once the connector unlocks.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the mic cable up and out of its connector.

With the connector properly unlocked, the mic cable should slide out with little to no resistance.

During reassembly, ensure that the locking tab is in its unlocked, lifted position before reinserting the mic cable. Press down on the tab to lock the cable in place.

Step 63

              Remove the audio board screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the audio board.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the audio board.

Step 64

              Remove the audio board

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the audio board by the headphone jack.
Pivot the board up and out of its recess to remove it.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the audio board by the headphone jack.

Pivot the board up and out of its recess to remove it.

Step 65

              Isolate the speaker wire

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape bundling the speaker wire to the Wi-Fi antenna cables.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape bundling the speaker wire to the Wi-Fi antenna cables.

Step 66

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the various strips of black tape routing the speaker wire along the bottom edge of the chassis.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the various strips of black tape routing the speaker wire along the bottom edge of the chassis.

Step 67

              Remove the right speaker

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the right speaker and the frame.
Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the right speaker and the frame.

Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.

If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

Step 68

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the right speaker from its cavity.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the right speaker from its cavity.

Step 69

              Remove the left speaker

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the left speaker and the frame.
Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the left speaker and the frame.

Step 70

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the left speaker from its cavity.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the left speaker from its cavity.

Step 71

              Remove the speakers

Remove the tethered right and left speakers.

Remove the tethered right and left speakers.

Step 72

              Uncover the display connector

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the sticker covering the display connector.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the sticker covering the display connector.

Step 73

              Disconnect the display

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable’s ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

Step 74

              Heat the display adhesive

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for one minute.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the Steam Deck—displays and internal batteries are both susceptible to heat damage.

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for one minute.

A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the Steam Deck—displays and internal batteries are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 75

              Insert an opening pick

Apply a suction cup to the top left corner of the display by pressing down on it to create suction, as close to the edge as possible.
If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken glass.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the display and the frame.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
Don’t insert the pick more than 1/8 of an inch (~3 mm) or you risk damaging the display panel, ambient light sensor, or fragile cable underneath.

Apply a suction cup to the top left corner of the display by pressing down on it to create suction, as close to the edge as possible.

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken glass.

Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the display and the frame.

Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.

Don’t insert the pick more than 1/8 of an inch (~3 mm) or you risk damaging the display panel, ambient light sensor, or fragile cable underneath.

Step 76

              Begin to slice the adhesive

Slide the opening pick no more than 3 mm deep across the top edge to slice the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick no more than 3 mm deep across the top edge to slice the adhesive.

Step 77

              Heat the display adhesive

Heat the right edge of the display for one minute.

Heat the right edge of the display for one minute.

Step 78

              Slice the right side adhesive

Slide the opening pick down the right edge to slice the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick down the right edge to slice the adhesive.

Step 79

              Heat the display adhesive

Heat the bottom edge of the display for one minute.

Heat the bottom edge of the display for one minute.

Step 80

              Slice the bottom side adhesive

Slide the opening pick across the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick across the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

Step 81

              Heat the display adhesive

Heat the left edge of the display for one minute.
Slide the opening pick across the left edge to slice the adhesive.

Heat the left edge of the display for one minute.

Slide the opening pick across the left edge to slice the adhesive.

Step 82

              Lift up the display

Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the display, carefully lift the right edge up, opening it like a book.
Remove the display.
During reassembly, if you’d like to install new display adhesive strips, follow these steps after removing your old adhesive strips from your current display.

Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the display, carefully lift the right edge up, opening it like a book.

Remove the display.

During reassembly, if you’d like to install new display adhesive strips, follow these steps after removing your old adhesive strips from your current display.

Step 83

              Remove the bumper screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the left bumper assembly.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the left bumper assembly.

Step 84

              Remove the left bumper assembly

Remove the left bumper assembly.

Remove the left bumper assembly.

Step 85

              Remove the bumper screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the right bumper assembly.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the right bumper assembly.

Step 86

              Remove the right bumper assembly

Remove the right bumper assembly.

Remove the right bumper assembly.

Step 87

              Remove the D-pad membrane

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the D-pad membrane.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the D-pad membrane.

Step 88

              Remove the D-pad

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the D-pad.
During reassembly, align the D-pad button such that the short side is facing towards the Steam Deck’s outer edge.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the D-pad.

During reassembly, align the D-pad button such that the short side is facing towards the Steam Deck’s outer edge.

Step 89

              Remove the action buttons membrane

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the action buttons membrane.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the action buttons membrane.

Step 90

              Remove the action buttons

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the four action buttons, A, B, X, and Y.
During reassembly, don’t worry! The buttons are keyed—they can only be reinstalled in one orientation.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the four action buttons, A, B, X, and Y.

During reassembly, don’t worry! The buttons are keyed—they can only be reinstalled in one orientation.

Step 91

              Remove the view button

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the view button.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the view button.

Step 92

              Remove the menu button

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the menu button.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the menu button.

Step 93

              Remove the front midframe screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 2.3 mm screws securing the midframe to the front shell, located on the front side.
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different Phillips driver if the screws won’t come out.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 2.3 mm screws securing the midframe to the front shell, located on the front side.

To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different Phillips driver if the screws won’t come out.

Step 94

              Remove the rear midframe screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 5.2 mm screws securing the midframe to the front shell.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 5.2 mm screws securing the midframe to the front shell.

Step 95

              Remove the midframe

Remove the midframe.

Remove the midframe.

Step 96

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the left of the volume buttons up and out of its plastic clip.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the left of the volume buttons up and out of its plastic clip.

Step 97

              Remove the volume buttons

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the volume buttons by pulling them up and away from the front shell.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the volume buttons by pulling them up and away from the front shell.

Step 98

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the right of the power button up and out of its plastic clip.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the right of the power button up and out of its plastic clip.

Step 99

              Remove the power button

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the left of the power button up and out of its plastic clip.
Remove the power button.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the left of the power button up and out of its plastic clip.

Remove the power button.

Step 100

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the left end of the mic cable and pry upwards to peel it up from the front shell.
The mic cable is secured to the front shell with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the mic cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the left end of the mic cable and pry upwards to peel it up from the front shell.

The mic cable is secured to the front shell with some light adhesive.

If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the mic cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Step 101

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right end of the mic cable and pry upwards to peel it up from the front shell.
The mic cable is secured to the front shell with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don’t force the cable. Lightly heat the mic cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right end of the mic cable and pry upwards to peel it up from the front shell.

Step 102

              Remove the mic cable

Remove the mic cable from the front shell.
Only the front shell remains.

Remove the mic cable from the front shell.

Only the front shell remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Steam Deck answers community for help.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

                                                                                      4 other people completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 4 other contributors

                    Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 03/10/2020

81,713 Reputation

                                      330 Guides authored                  



                       Badges:
                       38







                                                        +35 more badges

Team

                       iFixit                        

                                                  Member of iFixit 



                    Community                     


                                            141 Members                     


                                            15,772 Guides authored

Jon - Aug 10, 2022

maybe I don’t need an Atomic Purple replacement shell…

Rob - Aug 28, 2022

Hahaha. Same

Ichi Yamamoto - Aug 29, 2022

Same, wouldn’t have minded a sweet water dipped or translucent outer shell. Bring back that mad catz/third party aesthetic.

Milo Zhao - Oct 2, 2022

I wanted to replace my old shell with a new one cause it got scratches… well, now I feel the scratches ain’t that ugly.

Keith Woolven - Oct 23, 2022

I dropped mine and scratched it…. This seems to involve more than a simple screen replacement on my phones. I’ll likely still order some spare parts just in case. With a baby on the way, they will likely break it and I want to be able to fix it quickly.

Fortunately, mine at the moment works. I should always close the hard case. Took it out of the car and didn’t zip it up. Fell right out.

Provided Hardware#

Introduction#

What you need#

Team#

Provided Hardware

Introduction

What you need

Team