Featured
Featured Guide
Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
18
Time Required
35 - 50 minutes
Sections
3
- Opening Procedure
- 6 steps
- Core Assembly Removal
- 6 steps
- Battery
- 6 steps
Flags
1
Featured Guide
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Introduction
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your watch. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
You’ll need replacement adhesive when reassembling the device. Your device will function normally, but will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.
What you need
Step 1
Power down your watch
- Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down.
- Remove the watch band.
Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down.
Remove the watch band.
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Step 2
Unfasten the back cover
- Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the four 4.1 mm-long screws securing the back cover.
Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the four 4.1 mm-long screws securing the back cover.
Step 3
Loosen the back cover adhesive
- Apply a heated iOpener to the rear side of the watch for 5 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
- A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Apply a heated iOpener to the rear side of the watch for 5 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Step 4
Pry up the back cover assembly
- Insert the flat end of a spudger into the microphone opening at the top edge of the back cover.
- Pry upwards to loosen the back cover assembly. This may require some force.
- Don’t try to remove the back cover assembly all the way yet. It’s still connected to the daughterboard.
- Swing the back cover assembly open by 45 degrees to gain access to the sensor assembly cable.
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the microphone opening at the top edge of the back cover.
Pry upwards to loosen the back cover assembly. This may require some force.
Don’t try to remove the back cover assembly all the way yet. It’s still connected to the daughterboard.
Swing the back cover assembly open by 45 degrees to gain access to the sensor assembly cable.
Step 5
Disconnect the sensor assembly cable
- Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor assembly cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
- To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor assembly cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 6
Remove the back cover assembly
- Remove the back cover assembly.
Remove the back cover assembly.
Step 7
Disconnect the microphone cable
- Use a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 8
Unfasten the core assembly
- Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 4.1 mm-long screws securing the core assembly.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 4.1 mm-long screws securing the core assembly.
Step 9
Pry up the core assembly
- Insert the point of a spudger between the right edge of the core assembly and the watch frame.
- Pry upwards to loosen the core assembly.
- Don’t try to remove the core assembly all the way yet. It’s still connected to the screen.
Insert the point of a spudger between the right edge of the core assembly and the watch frame.
Pry upwards to loosen the core assembly.
Don’t try to remove the core assembly all the way yet. It’s still connected to the screen.
Step 10
Swing open the core assembly
- Carefully swing open the core assembly like the front cover of a book.
- Avoid straining or tearing the display cables at the bottom of the core assembly.
Carefully swing open the core assembly like the front cover of a book.
Avoid straining or tearing the display cables at the bottom of the core assembly.
Step 11
Disconnect the display cables
- Use a spudger to disconnect the screen and the digitizer cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
Use a spudger to disconnect the screen and the digitizer cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
Step 12
Remove the core assembly
- Remove the core assembly.
Remove the core assembly.
Step 13
Disconnect the interconnect cable
- Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 14
Remove the daughterboard
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the daughterboard.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the daughterboard.
Step 15
Pry up the battery
- The battery is held in place by mild adhesive.
- Insert the flat end of a spudger between the bottom edge of the battery and the midframe.
- Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
- Pry upwards to loosen the battery.
- If you’re struggling to pry up the battery, place a heated iOpener onto the motherboard to loosen the adhesive underneath. Don’t apply the iOpener directly onto the battery.
- Don’t try to remove the battery all the way yet. It’s still connected to the motherboard.
The battery is held in place by mild adhesive.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the bottom edge of the battery and the midframe.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Pry upwards to loosen the battery.
If you’re struggling to pry up the battery, place a heated iOpener onto the motherboard to loosen the adhesive underneath. Don’t apply the iOpener directly onto the battery.
Don’t try to remove the battery all the way yet. It’s still connected to the motherboard.
Step 16
Reposition the battery
- Carefully fold the battery over to gain access to the battery cable connector.
- Avoid straining or tearing the battery cable.
Carefully fold the battery over to gain access to the battery cable connector.
Avoid straining or tearing the battery cable.
Step 17
Disconnect the battery
- Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 18
Remove the battery
- Remove the battery.
- Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
- Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the device at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place.
Remove the battery.
Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the device at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
During reassembly, apply new adhesive where it’s necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our TicWatch Pro 3 answers community for help.
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Author
Dominik Schnabelrauch
Member since: 11/23/2016
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George - Dec 23, 2022
Reply
Where did you buy a replacement battery (if you did)? I have scoured thru aliexpress, ebay, and tried to find shattered-screen watches I could transplant from, with no luck so far. I guess I’ll keep looking. My watch barely lasted a year before the battery life halved. The voltage sag is so bad the watch bootloops whenever it vibrates below 30% voltage.
Daniel Lee - Dec 28, 2022
Reply
I’ve found a listing in aliexpress for an aftermarket battery but need to de-solder the original BMS and transfer to this new battery. Here’s the link to aliexpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10050049…
marco deirossi - Jan 2, 2023
Reply
link: https://ibb.co/f0LGK5L
marco deirossi - Jan 12, 2023
Reply
I don’t think it’s tin welding, but most likely TIG welding.
Difficult to open it, but the less experienced could solder the battery contacts on the top without opening the old solder.
