When you plug the printer in and turn the power switch to the on position the status light doesn’t light up.
Some times the power supply brick goes bad. Check to see if the light on brick turns on when the power supply is plugged in. You can use a multimeter to check the voltage at the socket and at the output cable of the power supply. See our AC power supply repair guide here UP! Plus 2 Power Supply Replacement
Check to make sure your outlet isn’t the issue. You could have blown a fuse or damaged the socket. Plug something that your know works into the socket to test it out, or use a multimeter to check the voltage.
No matter what you do, the printer can never finish the initialization routine and therefore won’t allow you to print your object.
A common issue is that the x,y, or z direction limit switch will not trigger when the platform reaches the end of the effective printing range yet the platform keeps moving in a certain direction. If this is the case you may have an issue with the connection of the switch itself either not making contact with the platform or it is simply a faulty switch. Replacing the limit switches can be a very difficult process depending on which switch needs replacing, consider sending in your printer for service as accessing the switches is not an easy thing.
When the machine beeps three to initialize make sure the fan motor on the extrusion assembly turns on. If the fan doesn’t turn on you most likely have a major electronics failure with your printer and it likely needs to be sent in for repairs as replacing these particular components is not that easy.
This could be due to a number of issues, with the most likely explanation being a stepper motor thinks it cannot go any further. This happens if the platform is moved MANUALLY while the printer was turned on; remember to never move the platform by force, the stepper motors are the only things that should move the output. Try rebooting the machine by toggling the main power switch on the rear of the machine next to the DC barrel jack. If this still does not fix your problem bring up the maintenance tab under the 3D Print main tab and move the bed by inputting a specific locations to test where and why the motors are failing.
Failed extrusion could be any or all of the following: clogged nozzle, blocked feed tube, stuck spool, low nozzle temperature, etc. You need to start eliminating variables. A fresh unused nozzle would be a good place to start, since the majority of your issues stem from malfunctioning nozzle ends.
The Extruder stepper motor is producing clicking noises when it tries to extrude. Check to make sure your nozzle temperature is at an appropriate level. If you have verified that it is hot enough for the plastic to extrude then you need to clean out the stepper motor assembly.
The Extruder stepper motor is moving with no clicking, but no material is coming out. Sometimes slippage is caused by the feed gear having worked its way out on the shaft so that it’s no longer aligned with the filament. If you remove the entire motor assembly from the printer completely, you can gently tap the gear back onto the shaft using a small hammer and a piece of tubing or solid rod. Be very careful to support the opposite end of the shaft so you don’t ruin the bearings or tap the shaft in too far.
Look at the nozzle itself (the brass cone that sticks out about 3cm off of the bottom of the extruder stepper motor), is it covered in any sort of plastic residue or is it otherwise dirty? if so, you need to clean it. This can be done using a needle and some acetone but if that doesn’t work, we recommend replacing it. See our repair guide on nozzle replacement.
The feeder seems to be working right, but the filament won’t come out of the nozzle. The nozzle might not be hot enough to melt the filament. You can test the temperature of the nozzle by touching some spare filament to the side of the nozzle. Be careful not to get any melted filament over the hole on the nozzle. If the filament doesn’t melt then your nozzle isn’t heating and you probably have a faulty nozzle heater assembly. Take it out and attempt to repair it, or replace it. See our nozzle heater assembly repair guide.
There are a lot of factors that may be contributing to your “less than ideal” print, here are some of the common issues
While the UP! Plus 2 has a wonderful feature to be able to “auto-level” the platform, often the best procedure is to calibrate the printer by hand so you can ensure that the printer is at the correct height at any given (x,y) coordinate. If you hear the printer head catching on the perfboard platform it is too close. Adjustments should be made in small increments and tested out.
Printer shifts or otherwise messes up halfway through the print. To ensure consistent and stuck prints, you need to first make sure the perfboard lays flat and flush with all of the edges of the bed, ensuring the perfboard is on the correct side. Once all six of the small spring clamps are holding the top of the perfboard to the bed check for warping with a level. Included with your printer should have been some binder clips with removable tabs. In order to attach the perfboard very securely attach the binder clip by sandwiching the metal heated bed to the perfboard together entirely.
