Wahoo Elemnt Roam Wfcc4 Screen And Battery Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          4 hours

Sections

Screen and Battery
19 steps

Flags

Grammar Police

Embrace your inner English teacher and help improve this guide’s grammar!

Bullets!

Better coordination with markups and the color/type of bullets will help make this guide more clear!

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

BackWahoo Elemnt Roam (WFCC4)
Full Screen
Options
History
Save to Favorites
Download PDF
Edit
Translate
Get Shareable Link
Embed This Guide
Notify Me of Changes
Stop Notifications

Introduction

Opening the case and replacing the components is not for the faint of heart. Especially replacing the battery, requires some medium/advanced soldering and tools. Also, there are no spare parts readily available. So if you damage one of the components, such as the mainboard, or ribbon cables, you won’t find a replacement.

I also noticed that using a battery with a (slightly) different voltage, i.e. 3.7 instead of 3.8 Volts, screws with the battery algorithm in the software. The battery runtime is the same, for me even better than before, but it shuts off when still showing a 40% charge. So just keep that in mind.

What you need

Step 1

              Open the Case

The bike computer consists of three main parts.
The bottom case, which holds the battery, USB charger port, as well as the rubber side buttons
The top case, which holds the mainboard, LEDs, as well as the top rubber buttons
The screen which is glued to the top case and connected to the mainboard via two ribbon cables on the left hand side of the device
All three parts are glued together securely. There are no additional clips, or screws that you need to worry about
To loosen the glue use a heat gun / hair dryer and heat up the edge of the top case
Use a small metal prying tool to pry open the device. This will take time and patience. The device is glued together like a tank!
Be careful not to rip it appart as you might damage the ribbon cables connecting the screen to the main board. Excessive heat can damage the battery. So try to direct the heat to the edge of the device as best you can

The bike computer consists of three main parts.

The bottom case, which holds the battery, USB charger port, as well as the rubber side buttons

The top case, which holds the mainboard, LEDs, as well as the top rubber buttons

The screen which is glued to the top case and connected to the mainboard via two ribbon cables on the left hand side of the device

All three parts are glued together securely. There are no additional clips, or screws that you need to worry about

To loosen the glue use a heat gun / hair dryer and heat up the edge of the top case

Use a small metal prying tool to pry open the device. This will take time and patience. The device is glued together like a tank!

Be careful not to rip it appart as you might damage the ribbon cables connecting the screen to the main board. Excessive heat can damage the battery. So try to direct the heat to the edge of the device as best you can

1024

Step 2

              Remove USB and Battery Ribbon Cables

Use a plastic spudger to remove the two ribbon cables that connect the USB port and battery from the mainboard
To remove the connectors you simply have to lift them up perpendicular to the mainboard

Use a plastic spudger to remove the two ribbon cables that connect the USB port and battery from the mainboard

To remove the connectors you simply have to lift them up perpendicular to the mainboard

Step 3

              Remove Ribbon Cables Connecting the Screen

There are two ribbon cables that connect the screen and LEDs to the mainboard
Use a small pin / plastic spudger to lift up the black, plastic tabs that secure the ribbon cables in the connector (circled in red)
Carefully pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors

There are two ribbon cables that connect the screen and LEDs to the mainboard

Use a small pin / plastic spudger to lift up the black, plastic tabs that secure the ribbon cables in the connector (circled in red)

Carefully pull the ribbon cables out of the connectors

Step 4

              Remove Mainboard

The mainboard is connected to the top of the case by four Torx 5 screws and held in place by two, small plastic guide pins in the top and bottom right corner (see arrows)
Use a Torx 5 bit and remove all of the screws
Ensure that you have removed the two ribbon cables connecting the screen and LEDs, before you remove the mainboard
After you have removed the mainboard, pull out the two white rubber bars for the LED lights.
Also keep track of the three small, plastic extensions for the top rubber buttons. They can easily fall out and they are tiny!

The mainboard is connected to the top of the case by four Torx 5 screws and held in place by two, small plastic guide pins in the top and bottom right corner (see arrows)

Use a Torx 5 bit and remove all of the screws

Ensure that you have removed the two ribbon cables connecting the screen and LEDs, before you remove the mainboard

After you have removed the mainboard, pull out the two white rubber bars for the LED lights.

Also keep track of the three small, plastic extensions for the top rubber buttons. They can easily fall out and they are tiny!

Step 5

              Remove Screen from Top Case

The screen is glued securely to the top of the case
Use a heatgun / hair dryer to soften the glue and use a small, thin prying tool to remove the screen from the top of the case
Again, this will take a lot of time and patience. Also, there’s a 99% chance that the screen will not survive this procedure. So be sure that you want to replace it before attempting to remove it

The screen is glued securely to the top of the case

Use a heatgun / hair dryer to soften the glue and use a small, thin prying tool to remove the screen from the top of the case

Again, this will take a lot of time and patience. Also, there’s a 99% chance that the screen will not survive this procedure. So be sure that you want to replace it before attempting to remove it

Step 6

              Glue new Screen to Top Case

Remove the old glue from the top of the case and clean the surface
Add fresh glue and insert the new screen
Be careful not to use too much glue. The screen is a tight fit and excessive glue will squeeze out, messing up the screen and filling up the holes for the LED bar

Remove the old glue from the top of the case and clean the surface

Add fresh glue and insert the new screen

Be careful not to use too much glue. The screen is a tight fit and excessive glue will squeeze out, messing up the screen and filling up the holes for the LED bar

Step 7

              Install Rubber Bars for LEDs and Button Extensions

Install the two white rubber bars to the top of the case
Ensure to add the three small, plastic extensions to the backside of the rubber buttons (red circle second picture). If you don’t install these, the buttons won’t work and you cannot add them later

Install the two white rubber bars to the top of the case

Ensure to add the three small, plastic extensions to the backside of the rubber buttons (red circle second picture). If you don’t install these, the buttons won’t work and you cannot add them later

Step 8

              Reinstall Mainboard

Guide the two ribbon cables for the LEDs and screen through the cable guides on the left side of the mainboard
Ensure that the mainboard is positioned correctly and look out for the two guide pins in the top and lower right hand corners of the top case (see arrows)
Use a Torx 5 screw driver to screw in the four screws, fastening the mainboard to the top of the case (red circles)
Connect the two ribbon cables to the mainboard. Ensure that the black plastic tabs (red circles in the second picture), are in the up position before you insert the ribbon cables
Push down the two black plastic tabs (red circles in the second picture), to secure the ribbon cables

Guide the two ribbon cables for the LEDs and screen through the cable guides on the left side of the mainboard

Ensure that the mainboard is positioned correctly and look out for the two guide pins in the top and lower right hand corners of the top case (see arrows)

Use a Torx 5 screw driver to screw in the four screws, fastening the mainboard to the top of the case (red circles)

Connect the two ribbon cables to the mainboard. Ensure that the black plastic tabs (red circles in the second picture), are in the up position before you insert the ribbon cables

Push down the two black plastic tabs (red circles in the second picture), to secure the ribbon cables

Step 9

              Remove Old Battery and Battery Circuit Board

The battery is glued securely to the bottom of the case with double sided tape
Use a plastic spudger to carefully pry the old battery from the case. This will take some time and patience, as the double sided tape is very strong
Remove the amber kapton tape and snip off the two main connectors to the battery circuit board
Dispose of the old battery in the right way and DO NOT throw it into the trash
Be careful when working with the battery and connectors and avoid creating a short between the two connectors

The battery is glued securely to the bottom of the case with double sided tape

Use a plastic spudger to carefully pry the old battery from the case. This will take some time and patience, as the double sided tape is very strong

Remove the amber kapton tape and snip off the two main connectors to the battery circuit board

Dispose of the old battery in the right way and DO NOT throw it into the trash

Be careful when working with the battery and connectors and avoid creating a short between the two connectors

Step 10

              Clean up Old Battery Circuit Board

Although the new battery comes with its own circuit board, we’ll have to use the old one as an intermediary / extension
Remove the remaining pieces of the old battery connectors from the two main pads. Be careful not to rip off the pads from the circuit board.
To avoid any conflicts between the logic of the old battery’s IC and the IC of the new one, we have to remove the old one. Remove the small IC from the circuit board using an exacto knife or similar
Use a soldering iron and some soldering wick to remove the remaining solder from the pads for the IC
Note The pad to the left of the IC (U2) is for the positive side, and the pad to the right of the IC is for the negative side (see last picture for correct orientation)

Although the new battery comes with its own circuit board, we’ll have to use the old one as an intermediary / extension

Remove the remaining pieces of the old battery connectors from the two main pads. Be careful not to rip off the pads from the circuit board.

To avoid any conflicts between the logic of the old battery’s IC and the IC of the new one, we have to remove the old one. Remove the small IC from the circuit board using an exacto knife or similar

Use a soldering iron and some soldering wick to remove the remaining solder from the pads for the IC

Note The pad to the left of the IC (U2) is for the positive side, and the pad to the right of the IC is for the negative side (see last picture for correct orientation)

Step 11

              Solder Bodge Wire to Old Battery Circuit Board

We have to solder a bodge wire to create a permanent connection between the negative side of the old battery’s circuit board and the ribbon cable.
Solder a small enamelled copper wire to bridge the two center pads of the IC (red circles first picture)
Use a multimeter to check the connection between the negative side of the circuit board and the ribbon cable
Add some solder to the positive and negative tabs of the board to prepare them for soldering later
You can also add some solder mask to the bodge wire for extra protection

We have to solder a bodge wire to create a permanent connection between the negative side of the old battery’s circuit board and the ribbon cable.

Solder a small enamelled copper wire to bridge the two center pads of the IC (red circles first picture)

Use a multimeter to check the connection between the negative side of the circuit board and the ribbon cable

Add some solder to the positive and negative tabs of the board to prepare them for soldering later

You can also add some solder mask to the bodge wire for extra protection

Step 12

              Prepare New Battery Circuit Board

Remove the kapton tape securing the new battery’s circuit board
Use a soldering iron to remove the attached wires from the circuit board’s pads
Use a soldering iron and some soldering wick to clean up the pads
Add some fresh solder to the pads and solder two thin, flexible wires to the positive and negative tabs of the circuit board
Please take note of the wires’ orientation As you’ll have to wrap the wires around the battery to fit the battery and wires into the case, solder them at an angle to make your life easier

Remove the kapton tape securing the new battery’s circuit board

Use a soldering iron to remove the attached wires from the circuit board’s pads

Use a soldering iron and some soldering wick to clean up the pads

Add some fresh solder to the pads and solder two thin, flexible wires to the positive and negative tabs of the circuit board

Please take note of the wires’ orientation As you’ll have to wrap the wires around the battery to fit the battery and wires into the case, solder them at an angle to make your life easier

Step 13

              Secure Circuit Board and Wires

Fold the new battery’s circuit board over and inwards
Use some kapton tape to secure the circuit board
Lead the wires around the side of the battery and secure them with kapton tape as well
Make sure the whole assembly is tightly packed and tidy to save space
Use a multimeter to check for the battery’s voltage to ensure the wires are connected correctly and that there’s no short

Fold the new battery’s circuit board over and inwards

Use some kapton tape to secure the circuit board

Lead the wires around the side of the battery and secure them with kapton tape as well

Make sure the whole assembly is tightly packed and tidy to save space

Use a multimeter to check for the battery’s voltage to ensure the wires are connected correctly and that there’s no short

Step 14

              Solder Leads to Old Battery's Circuit Board

Solder the positive and negative leads to the pads of the old battery’s circuit board, which we prepared earlier
Please take note of the circuit board’s and the ribbon cable’s orientation. The ribbon cable has to run under the battery and then wrap around it, to ensure proper orientation with the connector on the mainboard
Wrap the circuit board in kapton tape and secure it closely to the battery, to create a tight and tidy package
Use a multimeter to check for voltage at the ribbon cable’s end points, to check for a proper connection

Solder the positive and negative leads to the pads of the old battery’s circuit board, which we prepared earlier

Please take note of the circuit board’s and the ribbon cable’s orientation. The ribbon cable has to run under the battery and then wrap around it, to ensure proper orientation with the connector on the mainboard

Wrap the circuit board in kapton tape and secure it closely to the battery, to create a tight and tidy package

Use a multimeter to check for voltage at the ribbon cable’s end points, to check for a proper connection

Step 15

              Prepare Bottom Case for New Battery

Remove some material from the plastic tabs at the side of the bottom of the case to ensure that the new battery fits properly
Please take note of the orientation of the battery. The battery ribbon cable must be located in the lower half of the case, right next to the ribbon cable to the USB connector
This is a good time to connect the two halves of the case for a test fit to see that everything fits ok. If you need to squeeze too hard to get the two halves together, move the battery / cables / etc. to find a better fit

Remove some material from the plastic tabs at the side of the bottom of the case to ensure that the new battery fits properly

Please take note of the orientation of the battery. The battery ribbon cable must be located in the lower half of the case, right next to the ribbon cable to the USB connector

This is a good time to connect the two halves of the case for a test fit to see that everything fits ok. If you need to squeeze too hard to get the two halves together, move the battery / cables / etc. to find a better fit

Step 16

              Secure Battery to Bottom Case and Install Button Tabs

When you’re happy with the fit, add some (thin!) double sided tape to the bottom of the case to secure the battery.
Reinstall the three plastic tabs for each of the side buttons.
Note Without the tabs the buttons won’t work and they do have an orientation. So ensure that they are installed correctly.

When you’re happy with the fit, add some (thin!) double sided tape to the bottom of the case to secure the battery.

Reinstall the three plastic tabs for each of the side buttons.

Note Without the tabs the buttons won’t work and they do have an orientation. So ensure that they are installed correctly.

Step 17

              Connect Mainboard and Run Test

Connect the two ribbon cables for the USB connector and the battery to the mainboard
Press the Power button to test that the device starts correctly. Note: You’ll have to press the small button on the left hand side of the mainboard directly to power up the device
Connect the device to a USB charger, to test that the device charges correctly

Connect the two ribbon cables for the USB connector and the battery to the mainboard

Press the Power button to test that the device starts correctly. Note: You’ll have to press the small button on the left hand side of the mainboard directly to power up the device

Connect the device to a USB charger, to test that the device charges correctly

Step 18

              Glue Top and Bottom Half back together

After you have tested the device successfully and confirmed that everything fits snug and tidy, you can glue the two halves back together
Add some glue to the small lip of the bottom half of the case that connects to the top half and press both halves together
The best way to put pressure on both halves evenly, is to put the device upside down and to add some weight (e.g. a water bottle) on the backside of the device
Note I have used B-7000 glue to reassemble the device and it has worked well so far. The device will encounter all sorts of weather conditions and temperatures, so you need some flexible glue that can cope with those conditions

After you have tested the device successfully and confirmed that everything fits snug and tidy, you can glue the two halves back together

Add some glue to the small lip of the bottom half of the case that connects to the top half and press both halves together

The best way to put pressure on both halves evenly, is to put the device upside down and to add some weight (e.g. a water bottle) on the backside of the device

Note I have used B-7000 glue to reassemble the device and it has worked well so far. The device will encounter all sorts of weather conditions and temperatures, so you need some flexible glue that can cope with those conditions

Step 19

              Remove Screen Protector and Test the Device

Remove the screen protector from the replacement screen and test the device fully
Note In case you’re wondering about the grey/white case. I’ve used the opportunity to give the device a different color.

Remove the screen protector from the replacement screen and test the device fully

Note In case you’re wondering about the grey/white case. I’ve used the opportunity to give the device a different color.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

                                                                                      2 other people completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor

                    Bobbie E. Ray

Member since: 07/31/2022

374 Reputation

                                      1 Guide authored                  



                       Badges:
                       6







                                                        +3 more badges

Grammar Police#

Bullets!#

Member-Contributed Guide#

Introduction#

What you need#

Grammar Police

Bullets!

Member-Contributed Guide

Introduction

What you need